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Calculation and characteristic analyses of wind wave fields in the Yangtze Estuary
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摘要: 以ECMWF数据资料为输入风场，以ETOPO1地形数据和实测水深资料相结合得到计算水深，通过WAVEWATCH III和SWAN模型嵌套数值模拟了长江口海域1996—2015年连续20年的风浪场。为了在保证计算精度的同时提高计算效率，通过台风和寒潮期间显著波高的比较进行敏感性分析，选取合适的计算范围和计算网格。与观测数据进行比较，发现显著波高计算值的变化趋势与观测结果一致，两者的相关系数为0.82。为了使模拟结果更接近实际，基于观测的波高，给出了具有代表性点位显著波高的修正式。根据风场数据资料和修正后的显著波高进行了风场和风浪场的特征统计分析，风浪特性分析的结果既体现了季节的影响，又体现了地形的影响。Abstract: The wind wave field near the Yangtze Estuary for 20 years (from 1996 to 2015) is simulated with SWAN nested in WAVEWATCH III, based on the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) wind field data and combining the 1 Minute Gridded Global Relief Data Collection (ETOPO1) with the measured data as the calculated water depth. To simulate the wind waves precisely and improve the calculation efficiency, the sensitivity analyses of calculated significant wave heights during a typhoon and a cold wave are made so that the proper calculation domains and grid mesh types are selected. Comparing with the measured data, the variation tendency of calculated significant wave heights is in agreement with that of observed ones, and the correlation coefficient is 0.82. In order to make the calculated wave heights more correspond to the actual ones, the formula for modifying the significant wave heights at the representative point is provided. The wind and wave characteristics are analyzed statistically on the basis of the wind data and the modified significant wave heights. The results reflect the effects of both season and terrain effectively.
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Key words:
- wind wave field /
- wave model /
- Yangtze Estuary /
- modification formula /
- statistical analyses
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图 1 研究范围和代表性位置示意
（虚线框－WW III计算范围，实线框－SWAN计算范围）
Figure 1. Sketch of study scope and representative location
图 2 东边界取不同经度时P点的显著波高对比
Figure 2. Comparisons of the calculated significant wave heights of point P with different east boundaries
图 3 不同网格组合下P点的显著波高对比
Figure 3. Comparisons of significant wave heights of point P for different combinations of grid mesh
图 4 显著波高的观测值、计算值和修正值对比
Figure 4. Comparisons of the observed, calculated and modified values of significant wave heights
图 5 显著波高的计算值和观测值散点
Figure 5. Plot of the observed and calculated values of significant wave heights
图 6 波周期的观测值和计算值对比
Figure 6. Comparisons of the observed and calculated values of wave periods
图 9 点P不同重现期的H1/10极值波高
Figure 9. Plot of extreme significant wave heights of point P for different return periods
图 10 点P邻近海域50年一遇E向极值波高分布（单位：m）
Figure 10. Extreme significant wave heights of 50 years return distribution (unit: m)
表 1 点P多年平均风速统计
Table 1. Average wind speeds for point P
季度 月份 平均风速/
(${\rm{m}} \cdot {{\rm{s}}^{ - 1}} $ )季度 月份 平均风速/
(${\rm{m}} \cdot {{\rm{s}}^{ - 1}} $ )春季 3月 6.2 秋季 9月 5.9 4月 6.3 10月 6.4 5月 5.7 11月 6.9 夏季 6月 5.3 冬季 12月 7.1 7月 5.5 1月 6.7 8月 5.8 2月 6.8 
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表 2 点P多年显著波高与波向联合分布(全年)
Table 2. Joint probability distribution of significant wave heights and directions for point P
单位：% 波高/m 波向 N NNE NE ENE E ESE SE SSE S SSW SW WSW W WNW NW NNW 累计 H1/10≤0.5 0.5 0.7 1.1 0.9 0.8 1.2 1.3 1.0 0.9 0.5 0.3 0.1 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.3 10.2 0.5<H1/10≤0.7 0.7 1.6 2.4 2.1 1.6 1.5 1.4 1.6 1.2 0.5 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.3 0.4 16.1 0.7<H1/10≤0.9 1.5 2.9 3.6 2.8 2.2 1.5 1.5 1.8 1.5 0.6 0.2 0.1 0.1 0.2 0.4 0.5 21.4 0.9<H1/10≤1.2 2.5 4.5 4.2 3.1 2.1 1.4 1.2 1.7 1.0 0.2 0.1 - - 0.2 0.4 1.2 23.8 1.2<H1/10≤1.5 1.8 2.8 2.7 1.8 1.3 0.9 0.8 0.8 0.5 0.1 - - - 0.1 0.2 0.8 14.6 1.5<H1/10≤1.9 1.5 1.8 1.4 1.1 0.6 0.5 0.4 0.2 0.1 - - - - - 0.2 0.5 8.3 H1/10>1.9 1.0 1.3 0.9 0.6 0.6 0.5 0.2 - - - - - - - 0.1 0.4 5.6 累计 9.5 15.6 16.3 12.4 9.2 7.5 6.8 7.1 5.2 1.9 0.8 0.4 0.4 0.9 1.9 4.1 100.0
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表 3 点P显著波高与波周期平均值的统计
Table 3. The table of averaged significant wave heights and mean wave periods for point P
月份 $ \bar {H} $ 1/10/m$ \bar {T} $ /s月份 $ \bar {H} $ 1/10/m$ \bar {T} $ /s月份 $ \bar {H} $ 1/10/m$ \bar {T} $ /s3 1.0 2.6 7 1.0 2.5 11 1.1 2.8 4 0.9 2.4 8 1.0 2.7 12 1.1 2.7 5 0.8 2.3 9 1.2 2.9 1 1.1 2.6 6 0.8 2.4 10 1.2 3.0 2 1.1 2.7
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表 4 点P多年显著波高与平均波周期联合分布(全年)
Table 4. Joint probability distribution of significant wave heights and mean wave periods for point P
单位：% 波高/m 周期/s T≤2 2<T≤3 3<T≤4 4<T≤5 5<T≤6 T>6 累计 H1/10≤0.5 9.9 0.3 - - - - 10.2 0.5<H1/10≤0.7 5.9 10.2 - - - - 16.1 0.7<H1/10≤0.9 - 20.7 0.7 - - - 21.4 0.9<H1/10≤1.2 - 20.3 3.5 - - - 23.8 1.2<H1/10≤1.5 - 8.4 6.0 0.2 - - 14.6 1.5<H1/10≤1.9 - - 7.7 0.5 0.1 - 8.3 H1/10>1.9 - - 3.4 1.8 0.3 0.1 5.6 累计 15.8 59.9 21.3 2.5 0.4 0.1 100.0
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